Sunday 8 March 2020

Seppa's panel coat

The Panel Coat

Setting the fabrics side-by-side and feeling them can inform whether they'll work together or not.

I ended up mixing some of the fibres and weights, but not too drastically. The cotton indigo wax and dye print is lightweight and airy, thin and fragile, compared to the sturdy, densely-woven beige flax linen. The light blue cotton chambray is a little denser than the indigo. The two cotton twill fabrics, the tawny yellow and the slate blue, are light-to-medium weight.

The fabrics I have settled on that're going into the panel coat.
Here are some photos of the sewing progress:

The walking foot helped.
I machined all panels from the top downwards; and for the indigo fabric, I needed the walking foot, as it wormed if I didn't use the foot. Where the twill was against twill, or the twill was atop the indigo, I didn't need the walking foot.

Three sides of the incomplete panel coat. L - Back, C - Front, R - left side.
I had to pause for my next class where I had the big tables and could cut the linings and facings.

It's not grey, it's the blue twill from the top image.
The lining pieces are less numerous and simpler to put together.

The inner or outer? armhole facings of blue chambray.
I confess, I still haven't made up my mind which fabric (the lightweight blue chambray, or the medium weight linen) that I want for the outside and inside of the armhole facings. The linen would give a sturdy support if it was inside. But if it was outside, it would help counter so much of the visible blue of the panel coat and return some of the neutral beige/stone colour which is primary to the Skywise brief.

Opinions?

The wrong-sides of the lining and outer layers.
I've currently got the coat hanging for a few days on the mannequin before I recommence working on the panel coat.

My next instructions are:

  • Baste the lining to the outer at the neckline and the armholes.
  • Secure and cut the side slits.
  • Attach the sleeve facing to the inside and secure it.
  • Attach the external, decorative, sleeve facing to the outside and secure it.
  • Finish the side slits and their facings and then the bottom hem facings.
  • Attach the neckline panels to the coat to finish.

Extra notes:

The slits' facings and bottom hem facings are in the blue chambray.
The neckline panels are in the yellow and blue twill.

Conclusions:

I kinda expect the indigo to fray sooner than the other fabrics; it will give me a place for doing boro-inspired repairs. It will be RP'd as a new coat made over the winter in the Brass Coast from some fabric acquired during Seppa's stay. I will probably wash it a few times to start the fading and colour bleeding.

The first Winds of War and a dig site in Segura... oh my, oh my, oh my! (As a Day mage, oh my, oh my, oh my!)


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